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In the video ZXW. My license is about to expire though and I am considering a switch to XinZhiZao.

Oh man, that one is kind of a pain. I probably would have been doing more than muttering if the microphone wasn’t on.

I have my soldering iron at 840 C so that might be why it was a little easier for me. The flux is only on the outside of the antenna as I found it too difficult to prevent it from sliding around when there was flux underneath. That said, I think that any decent SMD flux should work in this situation.

I will make a video for the right stick as soon as I get a chance. The heat pipe thermal paste isn't all that critical, but at the minimum, I'd make sure to re-spread it so that there is some coverage. You can add a bit if you have some on hand but you don't need to clean the surfaces like you would for a CPU/GPU.

@@GoCellPhoneRepair Thanks you very much for answering my question. I just want to build in some gulikit halleffect sticks. In the video from gulikit there were some people how commented, that you should replace the thermal paste cause it may get brittle - but I don't have any thermalpaste and I am not an expert for such things.

Hi. Please visit gocellphonerepair.com/services/ to submit a price inquiry. I'd prefer not to give quotes here as things tend to change over time.

Glad to hear it!

Most parts suppliers will have this. Otherwise ebay.us/TazwCn

The cables that connect them are quite different. So to answer your question no. You might be able to find an after-market iPhone 5 button that looks like a 5S but the real ones will not fit at all.

You are welcome!

The lighting might make it look different than it is but that is just the surface of the cleaned heat sync. There is no other material on top of it.

Yes it does. Make sure that what you get is “simul-focal.”

Yeah... I wanted something to fill the silence but the RUclips editor only has loud and everything beyond loud as options. Think I'm gonna delete that.

I didn't mind the silence myself to be honest

I would consider replacing the charge port.

There are a lot of things that can go wrong with this tablet. Charge port, charging IC, PMIC, CPU... thorough diagnostics would be helpful.

Thanks! Definitely not one of my favorites.

I'm using 2UUL from Union Repair at the moment but note that the flux is only on the outside of the antenna connector. The pads underneath will still bond and I don't apply it there to prevent it from slipping around. I've used Mechanic 225, Kingbo, Amtech... all of them work just fine.

Thank you

Sounds close enough. There will be some variance based on different meters.

Yes. Original, Lite, and OLED are all the same.

Really? I had not heard about that one.

Hot air is 430C. Iron 840C.

You are so welcome!

Sure thing. Right now I am using the Hayear 14mp Tv Hdmi USB Industry Digital C-Mount Microscope Camera Tf Video Recoder DVR with a Digital Industry Microscope Camera Stereo Microscope 1/1 CTV CCD Adapter C-Mount 38mm to 25mm Connector C/CS Adapter.

@@GoCellPhoneRepair Thank you!

When the logo comes on at first is it also dim? If so, then you likely have a backlight issue either on the display or the motherboard. On the board it is usually a diode/diodes or the backlight driver itself. If the logo is bright during boot up then you likely have an image related issue.

@@GoCellPhoneRepair and after 3 days I no longer see the logo could this be the power supply IC? Or could the problem be with the screen and I need to change it? I have had this new screen for 3 months :((((((

Good analogy. Next time someone asks about getting into tablet repairs, I'll ask them if they are/were good at that game.

They are definitely not justified for everyone, but there are some projects that require them. Game console HDMI ports are a good example. Those will not come off with an iron alone.

Four minutes on the blue heating mat, then about another twenty for the board removal. Had I not been taking my time for the video, I'd estimate it still would have been about fifteen for that.

😕

I haven't worked on the Lite version so someone may correct me here but I believe that the wireless charging coil is located in a panel behind the outer back panel. Generally you will find the yellow triangle is caused either by a bad wireless coil flex, a damaged thermistor in the charge port- this port can be replaced as it is plug and play- damage to the battery sense circuit built into the battery terminal, or worst case scenario a bad thermistor on the motherboard itself the location of which I am uncertain on this model. Hope that helps.

​@@GoCellPhoneRepairhi i have an A04s, showing the yellow triangle with thermometer and on the bottom of screen it shows a charging cable with a line on it. I replaced the charging port with 2 new ones, including an original one and nothing changed. If i attempt to start the phone, screen flashes for a second and thats all. If i remove the charging board, phone starts. What do you think? Will a new charging board fix the problem?

You got that right!

Same reason I'm here

Copied from another replay: I haven't worked on the Lite version so someone may correct me here but I believe that the wireless charging coil is located in a panel behind the outer back panel. Generally you will find the yellow triangle is caused either by a bad wireless coil flex, a damaged thermistor in the charge port- this port can be replaced as it is plug and play- damage to the battery sense circuit built into the battery terminal, or worst case scenario a bad thermistor on the motherboard itself the location of which I am uncertain on this model. Hope that helps.

For the caps around the charging IC, yes. In continuity mode each capacitor should only beep on one side.

If you know that the board is good then you may have a problem with the battery or charge port.

I've been using 2UUL from Union Repair for the last couple months. Mechanic No. 225 is also good.

Glad it was helpful!

Hi @ReForceofficial and thanks for taking the time to comment. Do feel free to elaborate if I am misinterpreting what you said. There is a common misconception that adding solder on top of the flex cable help to create a bond is useful. It is not as the two surfaces where the actual joint is located are actually underneath it. There is virtually no space between the surface of the motherboard and the charge port flex cable, so you don't need to use a whole lot of solder. Take a look at the factory joints and you'll see what I mean. Also, this is not like say an HDMI port that is prone to wear and tear. Once you install the logic board, there should never be any stress on that area.